Land-Rover Freelander 1
Early Freelander 3-dr the L314 by British Aerospace was designed by Gerry McGovern in 1992 on the idea of a hippo as a water loving beast. BMW had acquired the Rover Group in 1994 that were developing the Freelander 1 running gear from a Rover Maestro van. The 2000 year and 2003 upgrades were also designed by McGovern as the urban Freelander version, wheels after year 2001 have a different fit and cannot use those made before that time, but the steel wheels seen are used after 2001 for offroad duties. Below, a hippo negotiates an empty canal bed in Poland....
Early Freelander wagon by BAE systems has a light color interior based on the African savannah grasslands that's hippo habitat. Cloth door inserts could become dirty and the molded panels are easier to clean. The early model has a radiator grille meant to remind viewers of the L-R Series II grille recessed in the body and later after 2001, it's changed to suit BMW preferences. Polycarbonate bumpers and wheel arch trims are seen with chromed side protectors. The orange turn indicators denote the early series. The early diesel engines differ from later, BMW also improved on the early petrol engines. However many buyers avoid the early series Rover K-series engine which had head gasket failures before being improved by BMW engineers after the year 2002. These could be improved by owners following service schedules but many survive with old Rover Group cooling problems.
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>>Sloping aerial of an Austin Somerset resembles the Freelander 1 below. The first Land-Rover Freelanders were made to appeal to 1950s drivers and now extremely dated, often found where the owner cannot afford a vehicle offering comparable features in a compact enough body fitting into a standard garage lock-up. The Freelander 1 is a great summer car for lounging around, it's electric rear door window opens quickly, the side doors and roof hatches give airy seated enjoyment of tourist destinations, they're very small cars that original owners found very pleasing. ..
>>Passenger Handle style and shelf above. Early Freelanders have this color of interior, the blued dials and heater vents seem tacky and hinted at the hippo being a water loving creature. The car could travel in fairly deep water provided the bow wave was maintained as directed in the Owner's Handbook, a car suited to flooded 'B' and 'C' class roads in cold seasons of the year, initially bought by the middle class countryside living elite but on becoming a best-seller, a choice of many trims were developed. Some models have tinted glass and there are many styles of alloy wheel, of which one only suits the 3-dr of each engine type. Heavier wagon models have other styles of alloy wheel that are explained in the brochures available online as pre-owned examples. Cloth, half and full leather upholstery is available, scrapyards offer better condition replacement seats and carpets. The car drives well if properly maintained but is truly awful if any one component is in substandard condition.Early blued instrument cluster with fuel dial showing the tank is near empty. The fuel should never be allowed to fall below the 8 o'clock mark and the water temperature dial is sitting lower than usual in this early example. The rev counter and speedometer are based on Austin Maestro instrument clusters but styled after the German V.D.O. style of Mercedes, BMW and Audi-Volkswagen, appealing to many buyers in Europe.
>>Austin Somerset is a small 1950s car found in scrapyards along with L-R Freelanders, its lifting and lowering arm side turn indicator lights are particularly valued by devotees, the Freelander 1 giving a better all round driving experience compared to the Somerset but modern small SUVs are as much more efficient and capable on highways, although off road or on poor roads the Freelander remains superior, a Chinese MG SUV or Ford Kuga doesn't have the lifting side turn indicator arm of the Austin but cyclists still do, and similarly dated features are certainly despised and treated with contempt by L-R specialists everywhere.<<Freelander body kits of this style were very popular with a buyer in England and the wheels here had a specific purpose outlined in brochures of the time. Many are today fitted with economy tires that won't give best. Longer stopping distances, poorer wet grip, faster wear and reduced efficiency need to be taken into consideration by drivers.
>>Striped body kit wagon. Early orange turn light indicator. Enclosed branded spare tire is one of three styles included below. Gooseneck high brake light often fades to light grey and owners don't have to replace its bulb under MOT regulations, meaning neglected examples don't work. The tailgate open lever has springs that wear out and fail to work, care must be taken to oil the hinges on the heavy door so they aren't bent. The heated rear window is sought after in scrapyards with its original motor. Tires are Goodyear Efficientgrip for the 1.8L 16v petrol 4-cyl engine.
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<<Freelander Rover L-series diesel (above video) engine cover of which the function isn't obvious, a Rover developed turbodiesel supplied to Honda of Japan for Honda cars like the Civic sold in Europe. Many British Land-Rover owners have a loyalty to the British turbodiesel although the European TD4 is thought more reliable long term, and BMW not strictly German but multinational, employing engineers from all over. Air filters need changed annually to maximize fuel usage and prevent carbon buildup. Ensure the engine air filter hasn't become dislodged inside its holder. Rubber hoses also have a limited mileage service life, the owner needs to check their condition regularly.
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Yuasa Black battery is downmarket as diesels only need the battery for cranking at start-up. The sight of a Yuasa Black would be considered a low price buy and evidence of an owner skimping on servicing costs, buying the minimum quality available will extend to tires, servicing, oil changes and replacement componentry.<<Carburetor cleaner seen on the passenger seat suggests this owner has been using low grade fuel, Freelanders are dated and don't respond well to E10 ethanol gasoline, it will foul the sparking plugs and injectors and cleaning fluids like Redex or Car Plan injector cleaner can work wonders. Disc brake cleaning is also recommended. The shift lever rubber boot is up on the dashboard shelf.
>>V.D.O. styled instrument cluster by BMW transposes sides of the petrol and temperature meters from the Rover Group original blued-look dials. The faux wood trim above, makes the cabin appear just as small as it really is, and other trim packages appear more spacious. When the odometer passes 100K the original factory struts should be replaced if they haven't been already. There are service life chores for replacing components, including oils and coolant.
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<<2003 year 3-dr has the blacker interior seen above, but retains some light trim. Later facelift versions become increasingly black inside as if led by BMW sedan car influences. The six spoke alloys are interesting as fitted to the 3-dr model, its tire walls have been shined with tire wall black. The Freelander is obviously attractive as a luxury model that can be restored using widely available parts. Restored engines are available since the upper mileage limit is only 250K miles with 150 more realistic. Neglected examples clearly fail a lot sooner. Using the car as a daily commuter would ruin it in record time if not being scrupulously maintained by a specialist shop, but the cars are thirsty and many L-R dealers have taken to driving 4 x 4 VW vans that are as compact.
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>>2002 year 'S' version (few remaining today) with the rare gunmetal color steel wheels that may differ in fit from pre-2001 steel wheel spares. They're used for off road driving across streams and so forth due to greater strength than alloys, on roads however they scrub away at performance as heavier than some but not all alloy types, certainly lighter than modern L-R alloy wheels. <<Freelander 1 decor of the above 'S' version. Steering wheels are made of foam and some deteriorate as seen, perhaps laid up off road for too long. Take care to avoid piercing the outer vinyl skin as many crumble away severely.>>Freelander V6 without the engine cover, the only engine found in the US market, and fitted with a Yuasa Silver battery for long life, had been scrapped for unknown reasons but the cylinder liners are known to drop and in the US are being rebuilt, but not in other markets.
>>Dashboard of the V6 with full featured buttons and rocker switches include heated front seats, air conditioning, cassette music system. The L-R badged service black faux leather wallet is seen in the left hand side footwell.
<<U.S. market V6 L-R Freelander has a side indicator on the polycarbonate fender and roof rack hooks. Its alloys based on the steel wheels are among the most attractive.
>>L-R Freelander quarter light on the famous Freelander 'D' pillar has electric motors in the V6 3-dr but they can fail open or closed, and be troublesome. Many however survive in good working order.
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How a 1.8 K-series could look today if maintained as well as this example. The original steel exhaust manifold shield is often removed allowing heat to bake the rubber cooling hose above it. An aluminum version is available at a better price than the OEM sourced L-R original. These K-Series engines need the revised BMW cooling hose revision that is very pricey.>>Race treated Rover K-Series timing belt details. The upper left mechanism is the belt tensioner with the water pump underneath it.
<<L-R parts on internet auction sites are often boxed as if genuine parts but hide the impeller details, as does the official Land Rover computer software that gives only a line drawing of the front seen here. Genuine parts have to be sourced from reputable dealers and incur high prices for long lasting peace of mind that all is good.
<<OEM L-R, K-series 1.8L 16v, twin cam water pump has a brass impeller for which you pay ten times the price of the aftermarket water pump that is only suitable for short term race car engines rebuilt after every race, but on road cars will rust into the cooling channels and prevent efficient removal of heat.
>>Later 1.8 K-series petrol 4-cyl engine with neglect seen in the expansion tank and steering fluid reservoir. RAC battery suggests breakdown recovery in the past.
Final 1.8 16v has silver or unpainted cooling line strip on the engine instead of being painted black. The later BMW cylinder heads were made of plastic as it molded easier and was cheaper to make and replace. The Rover cylinder heads were aluminum and very expensive to buy, to make and replace.<<Side protectors with steps at rear for children.
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<<On 4-wheel drive Freelanders the viscous coupling unit drives the rear wheels between two prop shafts disconnected in the front wheel drive only, deactivated versions. Here can be seen a V.C.U. that is driven from an I.R.D. in the gearbox using a different type of oil from the main oil cavity. At top left of picture note the anchor point for the trailing arm has been allowed to rust. These contain bushes that need to be renewed regularly, a red color type offers more precise handling and lasts much longer but gives a firmer ride and is very expensive. If not renewed the very expensive I.R.D. can be damaged through tire tread differences....
>>Front wheel rubber bushes are found in the wishbones seen here with new drop links left. Again the red type bush can be fitted using a heavy press but most simply refit new wishbones and their rubber bushes give a superior ride comfort, if less precise than the red color new tech bushes, they are nevertheless better in ride comfort but need renewed more often. Whilst many owners retain the old wishbones, they're meant to be replaced whenever the rubber bush is visibly degraded and the car shouldn't be driven far with worn out rubber bushes since this will cause damage likely too pricey for many owners.<<Note the wishbone mount rubbers are two dumbbell shaped bushes, one on each side that must be kept in good condition, these are today often seen in the red color material that has a longer life than the original rubber, and is extremely pricey, the wishbones above are connected through these rubbers. Note left that the jacking point has lost its cover and is being allowed to rust, this will cause rust in the sill and prove an expensive repair. All chassis rust needs to be stopped using Waxoil underseal by the company making Hammerite, but threaded bolts need other treatments. The jacking point needs to be restored and fitted with its plastic cover to avoid the rapid spread of rust rot in the sill, as it will fail an MOT.
>>New trailing arms have been fitted but the subframe and exhaust must not be allowed to rust. Above a previous owner's underside care is starting to rust with a recent owner's neglect. Wire brushes and treatments need to be applied a.s.a.p. Exhausts are available that don't rust but steel ones need early treatments to ensure full working lifespan. Neglect like this is a warning to buyers of neglected servicing elsewhere and explain why Freelanders are getting scrapped.
<<Here is seen an outrigger and these often rust under the coating needing to be welded after an MOT failure. The fuel tank cradle seen also rusts away from the inside of the steel tubes, out of sight but whilst not expensive to replace, involve removal of the subframe and connected components that proves a very expensive repair albeit once renewed, allowing many other parts to be replaced at the same time. Today the Freelander 1 has such a low market value, they are often scrapped instead. When left laid up the V.C.U. oil will readily solidify and if driven destroy your transmission, care with these rusted hulks must avoid such expensive mistakes.>>Note the fuel tank cradle seen center of photo and the rusted trailing arms, their anchors and rusted parts of the subframe, all need to be wire brushed and rust stopped, with treatments overpainted at least once a year before the cold months. Once it starts to rust it will continue under paint and must first be stopped by applying certain rust preventive treatments and only then overpainted when the rust is dead. The propeller shaft of the V.C.U. and I.R.D. must also be de-rusted and overpainted or replaced with better condition components from scrap donors.<<An I.R.D. with blanking plate fitted is from a front wheel drive Freelander, the gear part seen drives the rear wheels when connected to the I.R.D. propeller shaft that goes to the V.C.U. and hence to rear diff. The I.R.D. cavity will still need oil changes although this is a frequently neglected cause of transmission failure and windup noise. The I.R.D. oil has to be clean and clear upon changing every 2-4 years of running life.
>>Here is seen the wishbone rubber on the steering knuckle. Check the condition of your rubbers using this photo as a guide, the components should be free of rust and the C.V. joint boot seen above should be firmly clipped on each side, it must not be loose or you must have it clipped immediately or replaced. All of these components need to be rust free, treated with a wire brush, rust converter and rust paint at all times, examined and maintained. The caliper on the brake disc is temporary and will need replaced as may the disc itself.
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<<The coil spring, strut and tie rod of this TD4 are all in very good condition. Generally struts should be replaced after 100K miles and this probably explains it since not changing them could adversely affect your tire tread and I.R.D. The vented brake disc iron seen here is in poor condition and in need of replacing, both sides need to be done at once. The wishbone and C.V. flexible rubber boot can be seen below. Calipers on the disc are normally replaced when changing brake fluid at the two year mark. This is problematic on the Freelander 1 as changing the rear drums is often complicated by the state of the components connected in the rear subframe and trailing arms. These are reasons why some Freelanders might be seen in scrapyards due the high price of replacements. Brake drums have a very limited lifespan and in the Freelander poor ability to apply the handbrake despite numerous services, are a good sign that the rear underside needs a major overhaul. The condition of the vented brake disc can be seen in rusted condition of the hub visible through the rear wheels....
>>Here the subframe of a Freelander wagon can be seen to be rusting, the metal is thin and shouldn't be allowed to rust. A wire brush needs to remove surface rust and a rust converter applied over which a Waxoil underseal should be painted every year in the autumn months in preparation for snow and salt on the roads. The threaded sections of the tracking components need to be wire brushed and overpainted with rust converter and metal protective paint. Behind the subframe is the rear diff that must not leak oil and needs changed in scheduled services. When buying wrecks restorers are advised to get photos of the underside components....





























































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